Monday, January 31, 2011

Marloes ten Bhömer couture shoes ( customizing )

Critically acclaimed designer Marloes ten Bhömer produces shoes that are both provocative and otherworldly. Her work fuses artistic and technological experiment in order to discover shoes anew. Ten Bhömer's work has been exhibited in museums and galleries internationally and she gives lectures about her work worldwide. She takes on challenging commissions from galleries and private clients.
If the key commandment of glamorous, upscale shoe design for women is to amplify and exaggerate the curves of the human foot, ten Bhömer’s shoes are riotous and sensuous sinners” Shumon Basar, design and architecture critic

BluemâchéshoeMaterials: Leather and stainless steel
The MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché technique is a leather laminating technique. Bluemâchéshoe traces the silhouette form of the foot on the inside, but diffuses the silhouette form of the foot on the outside.

Greymâchéshoe Materials: Leather and stainless steel
Greymâchéshoe employs the MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché technique using loose straps of mâché, diffusing the silhouette of the foot.

BeigefoldedshoeMaterials: Vegetable tanned leather and stainless steel heel
Beigefoldedshoe is made from a single piece of folded leather and stainless steel heel construction.

Carbonfibreshoe #2 Materials: Carbon fibre and leather
Shoes constructed from carbon fibre, cladded in leather

Noheelsshoe Materials: Polyurethane resin
Shoes cast in polyurethane resin in a two-piece mould. Refers even less to exiting footwear typologies due to the erased heel.

NoheelsleathershoeMaterials: Leather
Study that explores the possible formal qualities when producing “Noheelsshoe” in rotating mould. Rotational moulding is a process in which a negative mould is filled with a small amount liquid and as the mould starts to rotate, this material solidifies against the inner walls of the mould, forming a shell, a hollow form.

RotationalmouldedshoeMaterials: Polyurethane rubber and stainless steel
Rotationalmouldedshoe was specifically designed for the "After Hours" installation in the Krannert Art Museum in Illinois, USA. 

Creplashoe Materials: Crepla and leather
Crepla, a specific type of foam, stretched around a conventional stiletto sole, emphasizing this line in the abstracted shoe-silhouette.

Greyglassfibreshoe Materials: Leather and fibreglass
Design evolution of the previous “Carbonfibreshoe”, made from a layered piece of fibreglass pressed in a two-piece mould. The combination of form and materials serve a dual purpose in generating a typology that gives the shoe its strength. 

Mouldedleathershoe Materials: Vegetable tanned leather and carbon fibre
Sections of vegetable tanned leather, pre-formed on a variety of shoe lasts (mould that is shaped in the form of an abstracted foot), are cut and assembled to create a fractured shoe. Even though its form is distorted, one can still recover the shapes of the lasts that the parts were constructed on initially.

Redmâchéshoe  Materials: Stainless steel and leather
The MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché technique is a leather laminating technique, which abolishes the use of a shoe upper pattern and allows for a varied wall thickness of the shoe. Redmâchéshoe uses rather big sheets of leather, defining the heel and abstracting the toe. The heel is a reinforced sheet of leather, attached to the side of the shoe curving down underneath the heel of the foot.


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